We were staying in a tented encampment on the West side of the reserve. The place wasn’t busy so we were treated well and the food was fantastic. The fact that the weather was chilly compared to Mombasa intensified all our appetites.
The Mara itself is big, over 70 sq miles. As soon as we landed Simon (tour guide) and George (driver) took us on there first game drive. Before we even unpacked we had seen Thompson and Grant Gazelles, water buffalo, warthogs, mongooses, zebras and hippos swimming in a Mara river tributary. Simon was full of interesting facts on the local wildlife; who was part of what family of animals; how to tell the difference between male and female of the species without looking at their ‘apparatus’, etc...
Some interesting facts:
- Zebras and giraffes can prolong their pregnancies by 2 months during periods of drought to give their offspring the best chance of survival
- Giraffes can release a hormone that causes a natural abortion if they know the conditions are not favorable to their offspring’s survival
- Warthogs have a very short memory span. If chased, they run away with their tail in the air like a radio controlled car, stopping after a short time to graze because they have totally forgotten they are being chased. Not sure how that particular evolutionary trait has persisted!
(Warthog ran off before I got a picture)
- Water buffalo are dangerous…don’t f*** around with ‘em
- White Rhinos are not that much different in color to black rhino’s. A rhino’s color is mostly connected with the type of soil they graze in
- A hippos excretes a natural oil on it skin that acts like sunscreen stopping their skin from splitting
And many more facts that I only vaguely remember now…
Needless to say by the second day I was fully entranced by the wonders of the remarkable Mara fauna. But as time went on our tastes started to get more specific. Where are the Lions, Giraffes, elephants, Rhino’s and Leopards?! The tour guide was a model of patience and advised us to be patient and then we’d be lucky.
Leaving the compound that day we immediately got up close to a group of giraffes. These wonderfully graceful creatures connected the land to the horizon, as they eyed us curiously.Next we got up really close to a Lion who was soon joined by his playful son. As they played only yards from the jeep, totally ignoring us, trepidation mixed with wonder. Their proud postures and movements left no doubt as to who was the King around here.
This is my favourite photo of the trip.
On the last full day safari we saw white Rhinos and Elands close up, and finally got close to elephants, although they were mostly hidden in a heavy thicket.
That afternoon we went to visit a Masai Village. I will admit I was bit skeptical about it being a tourist trap but the “manyatta” had an authentic feel and we were treated with generous curiosity rather than as walking wallets.
After a welcome dance all the Lads (i.e. Masai Lads and me) did the traditional Masai jumping dance. I think it is usually done to catch a Ladies eye but no offers were forthcoming after I jumped/danced. They were probably just in awe of my natural talent, or more likely frightened off by my manic facial expressions.
After a quick visit to the Masai craft shop we were off back home for dinner. Then the heavens opening and it rained all evening and night. All too quickly the Mara was left behind us, but its wild beauty is something I will not soon forget. It was deadly in fairness.
M.
Cultural learning
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Sitting around the camp fire at night we listened to hyenas, frogs, crickets, birds and occasionally heard a Lion roar in the distance. A young Masai tended the fire, Robert (his christian name), only 20, and just married the previous year. His wife had to singlehandedly built their mud house and he had only paid 5 of her 10 cow dowry. He epitomised the content and peaceful nature that everyone we met on the Mara seemed to posess.
More Pictures
A cute little Dik Dik
Breakfast out on the Mara
Stuck in the mud
