Friday, October 9, 2009

What I Have Lived For

What I Have Lived For (adapted)
(The Prologue to Bertrand Russell's Autobiography)
----------------------------------------------------
Three passions have governed my life: The longings for love, the search for knowledge, And unbearable pity for the suffering of [humankind].

Love brings ecstasy and relieves loneliness. In the union of love I have seen In a mystic miniature the prefiguring vision Of the heavens that saints and poets have imagined.

With equal passion I have sought knowledge. I have wished to understand the hearts of [people]. I have wished to know why the stars shine.

Love and knowledge led upwards to the heavens, But always pity brought me back to earth; Cries of pain reverberated in my heart Of children in famine, of victims tortured And of old people left helpless. I long to alleviate the evil, but I cannot, And I too suffer.

This has been my life; I found it worth living.
-----------------------------------------------------

Somedays, I do like a bit of the ould poetry.
M.

Sunday, September 6, 2009

The Flying Kiwi

We all knew this one was special. Dave has christened it 'The Flying Kiwi' (after a short lived NZ based TV show). It was handmade, 4 feet long with big white solid plastic back wheels, a wooden body and two small front wheels with a steering rope. I'm not sure where the wheels came from, but you knew, just by spinning them; they were fast.

The night before my eldest brother Matt had shown me how to burn a hole in a middle of a piece of wood with a hot poker. This was of course for the steering pin; crude but effective. First test drive would be tomorrow morning, on Mannions hill. The Kiwi's first outing.

After a few minor modifications we started the walk up the hill. Half way up, at the turn, I was stationed to watch out for oncoming cars. I could whisle loud so that was to be the warning signal. As my brothers continued the ascent I listened with proud admiration to their excited banter.

Naturally seniority dictated that the rattling object emerging from the upper hill would be piloted by my eldest brother, Matt. But as the cart got nearer it was Dave I saw. As my racing mind struggled to assess the situation, I wondered, 'Monkey (Matt) would be crazy enough to survive this, but is Dave?'. As the cart approached the brow of the lower hill, my bowels loosened as my ears registered the sound of a car approaching from the opposite direction.

I started running like the bejaysus. Never occured to me to whistle to try and stop Dave. I waved and hollered like a banshee at the approaching car. It slowed and stopped as Dave's momentum carried him out of control towards the parked car. He layed on the brakes (a wooden stick on one wheel) and ran right into the front of the car popping his head lightly off the bumper.
Not a scratch on him, thank God. After Seamus Dick (the owner of the car) shouted at us for a minute or two we walked sheepily in home with Matt. Dave smiled and says "She's fast!". We nearly broke our holes laughin'.

I had a very happy childhood. This Friday the VSO Coast volunteers are hosting a workshop on "protection of children against commercial sexual exploitation through the promotion of responsible tourism". There are so many children here that are robbed of their childhood. I believe every Child has the right to a Childhood...and the innocence devilment of a fast cart.

M.

p.s. I'm sure my brothers will correct me on the details but that's how I remember anyways.

UNICEF Report Extract (Kenya Coast)
- All data sources indicated that more than 45% of girls involved in prostitution and child sex tourism began transactional sex for cash or for goods and favours between the ages of 12 and 13 years.

- More than 10% of girls begin transactional sex below 12 years of age.

Thursday, September 3, 2009

An evening Stroll

Grace is the best cook this side of the Sahara. About twice a week her son Daniel arrives over with sweet cake or homemade passion juice or fresh veg. I work with her husband James. He’d talk the hind leg off a donkey, but I join his company every chance I get. He is a wise mzee (old man). I always feel comfortable and welcome in their home…and always leave well feed.

In the evening I usually take a walk out to the Bombolulu stage (main road where the matatus run from). Of a evening, I may bump into Johnny from leather workshop, a rampant Arsenal fan and the main man on the Bombolulu sports committee, of which I am the latest member, every since I made a small donation (thanks Matt/Jen/Dec). They bought a volleyball and net with the donation and the workshop has gone volleyball crazy.

After saluting the askaris (guards), I exit the gate and salute my fruit and veg lady (Harbari ya jioni – how’s your evening; Nzuri – grand). In short gestures I assure her I’ll be calling to her on my way back. The road is newly paved now so even with the rains tis not muddy; a real gift for all the wheelchairs that use it. Half way out I greet Piru (Peeroo), who works in raw material stores (One bad leg, two strong arms). “Where to?” he asks. “Safari Kidogo” says I (Short trip). After a brief commentary on the weather I am on my way again.

My viasa Lady is not there this evening. I salute Makoha’s (office runner) wife at her stall and stop to buy a few oranges. I ordered (and paid for) a pineapple off her two weeks ago but crossed wires meant it spoiled before I collected it. We don’t speak of it. Makoha is in bed sick with Malaria. “Pole. I hope he feels better soon”.

Another hundred metres and I’m at my destination. Johnny’s store. I hand in my glass bottle and grab another liter of sprite, 20 sportmans and some phone credit. Johnny is pure business and hands me my change through the security grill.

On the way back I stop at my veg lady. She give me a free onion and a few free chilli’s with my potatos, bananas, tomatoes and mangoes.

Back inside the workshops James is playing guitar outside his house. I sit while he finishes the song and in gentle admiration say “Tamu” (sweet). We talk about life, religion, work and politics until hunger moves me.

Tomorrow is stocktake. I need an early night. Simple as that.

M.

p.s. This blog's for my Mum. Sorry it took so long Ma.

Tuesday, August 18, 2009

The Larium Effect

Falling into a fitful sleep after work, I shift uneasily on the couch. My unconscious mind is angry. In my dream, I am picking a fight with an aged woman who has stolen my nafsi. She is old and frail. She is a pain in the ass. I scream at her. Disturbed doesn’t begin to describe how I feel when I wake up.

Africa is the cradle of humanity. Scratch your arm and you may see the darker layer. We all came from here or hereabouts. We were bound to end up back here sometime.

The following day I work hard. That aged Lady is my kin. She’s still a pain in the ass though.

M.

P.S. Don’t worry; I just thought I'd try something different; and; don’t be afraid to scratch;
Note: ‘nafsi’ is the Swahili word for breath/self

Friday, July 31, 2009

Ta me ag dul abhaile

I was strangely apprenhensive in the weeks before going home. Couldn't quiet put my finger on why. Suppose you always wonder if things will be different; people have moved on, changed. Or indeed, more vainly, whether you have. Thankfully, after my first pint of Guinness, on the first night back, I felt right at home. It was like mother's milk, and I slept like a baby.

The weeks after that were a whirlwind of people and places...

Birdhill
- Welcome home Party for me and Brother Paul
- Family time
- Climbing Carauntoohill with Bro Paul and Nephew Matt (6 hours! My legs were jelly for 2 days)
- Family time and visit from college crew

Dublin
- Amdahl Lads BBQ (We were far too happy to see each other)
Loughrea
- Pete gaff and time with Godson and his bros (Pete's young lads are gas)
Athenry
- Cooked dinner for, and catch up with, Morag and Edel. There were no fatalities.
Galway
- Pints, labouring (have the bruises to prove it too) and and wedding prep (I wouldn't have been anywhere else.)

Spanish Point
- Wedding prep, wedding, post wedding (Mighty, absolutely Mighty!)
- Pictures...coming soon...here is one for now.









Dublin
- AC/DC concert with Amdahl Lads (Thunder! Na-na-na-na na-na-na-na!)










Galway
- Final vistits with Sandra, Teds and Maj

Birdhill
- time out with family and Callum's birthday, with biggest bouncy castle I have ever seen...They were so happy to be getting rid of me they were dancing in the kitchen! Loads of hugging and out the door.
Dublin
- Quiet time in IoP before departure + Leaving dinner
London
- Impromtu BBQ in Ado's and Julie's (Richie has a nice rack...Of ribs, behave!)


Nairobi
- VSO office visits, welcome new volunteers (i.e. free food), Squash games, homesickness, and Diana's Birthday Party (Big thanks to Peter an Emily for putting me up)

Back in work in Mombasa on Friday (10th) and a day of greeting people and handing out 'candy' and old mobile phones. I had a grand old time catching up with friends and on recent events.

There would be time enough for work on Monday.

M.
Cultural Learning
-----------------
If you're gonna try to explain 'the bog' and 'turf' to a Kenyan, bring pictures.
Note: I'm going try to get back to blogging more regularly.

Thursday, May 28, 2009

Africa

Once upon a time an innocent (relatively), young (even more relative) Irish country lad came to Kenyan. After an initial period of being pointed at and called 'Muzungu'-White man, he came to be commonly known as Mr Mike. Mr Mike busied himself with all manner of IT related projects and enjoyed many highs, with only the odd "What the hell am I doing here!" moments.

Things happened in Africa that could never have been predicted. Who could have foreseen defeat at the feet of a 14 old girls soccer team; Or our intrepid volunteer being consulted on the design of a chain cutting machine, or helping out by drawing yellow arrows on the ground.

For you see, Africa is not predictable. Any given Tuesday you may be met by a picket line at work or armed policemen at the gate. A simple act of kindness from your neighbor can bring the realization that you are a valued part of the community. Implementing new payroll processes can mean that you, unintentionally, cause a family to go hungry. Saying that some historians surmise that Buddha and Jesus could have been one and the same, can lead to a sustained campaign by a colleague to save your soul from dark forces. We eventually agreed that everybody’s God is different, but in truth He is just the same.

He missed his Ma of course, and all his friends and family. He missed having a washing machine and the taste of a frothy pint of Guinness. He was poor by Western standards but well to do by third world ones. The lack of the merciless commercial onslaught he got at home meant that he, with time, forgot about all the new fangled accoutrements that would make his life easier and more modern. He never walked with his hands in his pockets, as it was just too damned hot. He sometimes walked hand in hand with male colleagues around Bombolulu cause that's just the way it is here. (But in truth it will always be a cultural adjustment beyond his comfort zone).

Side by side he worked with his African counterparts. Proud to call them friends. The Trocaire box pictures of his youth seem misplaced in memory. Come and see for yoursells. Mr. Mike ain't no preacher. That Muzungu doesn't have the answers.

He only has a vague idea as to what he'd do next year; but that's alright. When the time comes the decision will get made, and he’ll make the most of that decision till the next decision needs to be made.

I guess I’ll live happily ever after. That’s the plan anyways.

M.

Monday, May 11, 2009

A Family Wake

In 1982, the Galway Plate was won by 'The Lady's Master'. I was at home, outside, trying to calm me cousin Mark down after he fell. Even though we were both still in short pants we realised the importance of the event from family reactions. My Uncle Matt, the trainer, was the toast of Galway. Sadly, he'll toast no more. His last bottle of Brandy was, well, his last. The family buried him today.

This is the man who helped me get my first job...my grant in college...my first car insurance...a stranger to me now. He hasn't talked to me for years. The liquor did his talking for him these last few years.

What a waste. What a complete bloody waste. He is at peace now. At least that's something.

I wish I was at home. I'd stand my Da a drink...and he'll stand me one back...and he'll say...'tis a grand day out'..and you'd say...'I love you too, Da. Sorry for your loss.'. Then, I'd need another drink.

M.

Monday, May 4, 2009

HALF TIME, CHANGE SIDES!

The highlight of last month was the Masai Mara trip of course, but the VSO committee meeting in Kilifi (80km North of Mombasa) was the other memorable occasion. We are the envy of the Kenyan VSO volunteers as the coast meetings are always a riot. After the necessary order of business was completed, masterfully chaired by our outgoing chairperson Cocky and outgoing vice chairman Wayne, we lined up against Cocky's under 14 girls football side. (The Lads are going to rip me to pieces about this when I get home). Despite a lively start our lack of acclimatisation training in our preparations (i.e. in the 5 minutes it took to pick the team) lead to a defensive scramble that put us a goal down. That's how it finished, 1-0 to Moving the Goalposts under 14 girls team. The girls were gracious victors, and morale was high, as we mixed the players for the second half - a nil-all draw.



The girls are part of an empowerment through football program which has worked extraordinarily well. Go to http://www.mtgk.org/ to see more on this great initiative. In her 4 years here Cocky has really made a difference. My hat is off to you girl.



Closer to home my quest to leave such a legacy seems a long way off. I'm half way through my year and the time to face the tough question of sustainability has arrived. The cold reality has set it in that this isn't going to be easy. My motiviation is waning as I chase my tail day after day, battling the realities of working in an African NGO. I have unwittingly joined the firefighting mob and made the classic mistake of spreading myself too thin.

I am trying to step back from my ever growing 'to do' list and concentrate more on capacity building, that is, training, mentoring etc. Often I am asked if I will extend my contract for another year. It's unlikely but my trip home in June will give me a chance to assess my options.

Bombolulu is a great place, drives me mad at times, but while I want to solve all their problems I know that is not possible, neither is it my place. It's a lot bigger than me. I can make a small difference in my time here. Will have to put off saving the world till next year.

While adjusting my expectations has been difficult, there is no point running myself into the ground. Also,VSO trainings sing patience as a virtue. At times I think 'you can kiss my virtuous ass!'. Don't get me wrong, it's a good motto. Just hard to live up to. Patience needs to be refueled by time off, nights out, nights in, having the craic in the office and recently by getting a lend of a guitar off James...I can play ten chords a minute on that sucker!

I want to remember my experience here and smile. I must remember to stop and smells the roses every so often. Everytime I blink a month has gone by...6 months already...soon Africa will be a memory. That memory is now in the making.










The 'Masai' Duggan jumps to impress the women.

M.


Wednesday, April 15, 2009

Masai Mara

I couldn't wait! 3 days safari on the famed Masai Mara wildlife reserve. April is not really the best time to go as the rains can make the terrain un-navigable, so being rained out was a possibility.

We were staying in a tented encampment on the West side of the reserve. The place wasn’t busy so we were treated well and the food was fantastic. The fact that the weather was chilly compared to Mombasa intensified all our appetites.

The Mara itself is big, over 70 sq miles. As soon as we landed Simon (tour guide) and George (driver) took us on there first game drive. Before we even unpacked we had seen Thompson and Grant Gazelles, water buffalo, warthogs, mongooses, zebras and hippos swimming in a Mara river tributary. Simon was full of interesting facts on the local wildlife; who was part of what family of animals; how to tell the difference between male and female of the species without looking at their ‘apparatus’, etc...


Some interesting facts:
- Zebras and giraffes can prolong their pregnancies by 2 months during periods of drought to give their offspring the best chance of survival











- Giraffes can release a hormone that causes a natural abortion if they know the conditions are not favorable to their offspring’s survival













- Warthogs have a very short memory span. If chased, they run away with their tail in the air like a radio controlled car, stopping after a short time to graze because they have totally forgotten they are being chased. Not sure how that particular evolutionary trait has persisted!
(Warthog ran off before I got a picture)

- Water buffalo are dangerous…don’t f*** around with ‘em










- White Rhinos are not that much different in color to black rhino’s. A rhino’s color is mostly connected with the type of soil they graze in















- A hippos excretes a natural oil on it skin that acts like sunscreen stopping their skin from splitting











And many more facts that I only vaguely remember now…


Needless to say by the second day I was fully entranced by the wonders of the remarkable Mara fauna. But as time went on our tastes started to get more specific. Where are the Lions, Giraffes, elephants, Rhino’s and Leopards?! The tour guide was a model of patience and advised us to be patient and then we’d be lucky.



Leaving the compound that day we immediately got up close to a group of giraffes. These wonderfully graceful creatures connected the land to the horizon, as they eyed us curiously.


Next we got up really close to a Lion who was soon joined by his playful son. As they played only yards from the jeep, totally ignoring us, trepidation mixed with wonder. Their proud postures and movements left no doubt as to who was the King around here.







This is my favourite photo of the trip.









On the last full day safari we saw white Rhinos and Elands close up, and finally got close to elephants, although they were mostly hidden in a heavy thicket.


























That afternoon we went to visit a Masai Village. I will admit I was bit skeptical about it being a tourist trap but the “manyatta” had an authentic feel and we were treated with generous curiosity rather than as walking wallets.

After a welcome dance all the Lads (i.e. Masai Lads and me) did the traditional Masai jumping dance. I think it is usually done to catch a Ladies eye but no offers were forthcoming after I jumped/danced. They were probably just in awe of my natural talent, or more likely frightened off by my manic facial expressions.













After a quick visit to the Masai craft shop we were off back home for dinner. Then the heavens opening and it rained all evening and night. All too quickly the Mara was left behind us, but its wild beauty is something I will not soon forget. It was deadly in fairness.

M.
Cultural learning
-----------------
Sitting around the camp fire at night we listened to hyenas, frogs, crickets, birds and occasionally heard a Lion roar in the distance. A young Masai tended the fire, Robert (his christian name), only 20, and just married the previous year. His wife had to singlehandedly built their mud house and he had only paid 5 of her 10 cow dowry. He epitomised the content and peaceful nature that everyone we met on the Mara seemed to posess.








More Pictures










A cute little Dik Dik












Breakfast out on the Mara














Stuck in the mud


Wednesday, March 18, 2009

The Importance of being Irish

I've repeated the same joke too many times. What do Kenyan's call St Patrick Day. That's right, Tuesday. It was only slightly funny the first time I said it. On the evening of Paddy's I was out in the pub when my Mum called. All the family were lined up to talk to me. Mam, Matt, Katie, John, Mary, Dec, Jeanette and of course little Callum. They all had a great time in Cheltenham even though the family horse caught a cold and didn't run. Before I finally put down the phone we had left the pub, got in a taxi and arrived at Bobs "Irish Bar". The barmen had no idea it was Paddy's Day and looked on bemused as we got progressively more boisterous. I got home at some ungodly hour. As you can imagine work today was an absolute pleasure!

Meanwhile back in Bombolulu, the rains have started so I'm not losing my bodyweight in sweat everyday. Running around like a manmad at work hasn't helped. The months are passing and finally we are starting to work on integration information systems. The Production Tracking System (PTS), the product costing, the Product codings...it exciting stuff but I won't bore you the details. The Management meetings have been happening on a regular basis, which is good. I was even asked to say the prayer at one of them. I can't remember what I said but it seemed to be acceptable anyways.

Went over South side to Diani a few weeks back. Just relaxing on the beach and getting too much Sun. Big read head on me I had for the whole of the following week. You have to use the Likoni Ferry to get across to the south side, which is a far from charming experience. Someone tried to pickpocket me on the way over, and on the way back we were left waiting 30 minutes, in the soaring heat, before loading. We got off lightly though, as they often break down. Diani is well worth it though as the beaches are deadly and the atmosphere relaxed. Although, watch out for the Monkeys, one of the cheeky @&*! robbed a doughnut right out from under my nose!
I am fairly well integrated in Bombolulu life now and spend Sunday afternoon sitting with the locals, avoiding the local brews they are drinking, and greeting passersby and having the craic. I often get asked why I'm not married. It is almost unthinkable to be 35 and not married here. I have promised to bring my wife to Kenya when I find one.

Just outside the compound the first tented table is my fruit and veg Lady. I can only buy vegetables she doesn't have elsewhere. I tend to hide anything of that sort deep in my bag if I do, as I have to pass her on the way in. She did after all introduce me to Mango with pepper salt treat. A 5 bob wonder.

My Viasa supplier is the HR manager's wife. I buy off her when she is there. The pili pili (crushed tomato and chilies) is not as good at the other vendors. It has become a staple of my diet.
Have been seriously neglecting my blogging duties recently. Too busy living it to be writing it. Life is busy, but life is good.

Belated Happy St Patrick's Day to everyone!

M.

Cultural Learning

-----------------

Corruption in politics is a way of life in Kenya. There are usually numerous scandals on the go at any one time. Most ordinary Kenyan's are feed up to the teeth of it. Recently some protests turned ugly and all the volunteers re-familiarized themselves with VSO evacuation procedures. There is a very small chance that it may happen but sure there is no point worrying about it till it does. Take a look at http://www.nation.co.ke/. Every second story is about dodgey dealings. Some of them Fianna Fail boyos would do well out here.
St Patrick's night - Brendan (Canada), Alan and Seamus (Mayo), all volunteers with various organisations

Monday, February 23, 2009

The Big Day!

The big day arrived. Time to upgrade Jewelry Production!














The Plan





















The Clean up



















Marking the lines























The New Tables





















Painting the Lines






















Assigning the Seats




















Moving the BIG Table




















The Control Flow Arrows

























At End of the Day

Friday, February 20, 2009

Work; Eat; sleep.

Last weekend was quiet. I wasn't feeling well so besides a trip to the bank to collect my ATM card I pretty much stayed in. One of the soccer lads called to the door to see if I wanted to play soccer on Sunday but I politely declined. There was a Muzungu tourist playing so I guess they wanted to balance the sides. The night before was Valentines but I normally ignore that anyways. It is as big in Kenya as at home with the women dressing predominantly in red, and loads of teddybears doing the rounds. At least the women folk are getting treated well here one day of the year.

At work we are planned for the new Jewelry Production floor Plan. I have taken up a Project co-ordinator role, have an implementation plan and all! But it has meant never ending planning meetings which has tired everybody out.


Wednesday evening was different. Makoa the office 'runner' kindly collected a package from the post office sent by Neal, my Irish mate in Canada. All the lads gathered around as I opened and I passed around the books, shared the music and films and papers/magazines. We all had a long conversation about films and music. I even got a packet of rolo's. I gave Nato my last one. It's OK it has no significance here . The Time magazine had The Big 'O' on the front so of course they were all mad to keep it. There was even a bidding war starting...so we agreed that it would stay in the office until everyone has read the Obama story. Most of them borrowed a book to read, in fact I lent most of the books I have read to Makoa. He loved 'Memoirs of a Geisha', thought it was the best book ever. That evening I happily whistled my way home and read for a very long time...Neal you are a legend of a man!

Since my last blog, Abdu's Dad invited us all out to Kikambala (a few miles outside Mombasa) for a BBQ. The family have a beautiful house (similiar to those in Lamu) with four floors each with ever more stunning views of the sea. His Dad spends the Summer months in Canada and lives in Kenya during the winter. He is a advisor (Political science) for the UNDP and the house was was full of books and winding staircases. His Dad stood captivated as he explained that Vasa Da Gama, the Porteguese explorer, would have sailed past here in the 15th century. Cool!


After a hour or two on the beach we sat down to what can only be described as a feast. All the volunteers and Abdu's Da's friends ate and drank with abandon. It was mighty. Later we were supposed to go out but after a few drinks we ended up just kicking back at my place with a bottle of Kenya cane.

Note to self: bring a bottle home for the brothers to sample.


Back at work the Kaizen "Vital few" is forming our way forward. Put simply, we are building the four pillars for future success, which are:


Culture: Motivate the employees to be stakeholders in Bombolulu's future, therefore more co-operative, productive and open to change...and Communicate! Communicate! Communicate! (note to self: speak slowly. Even when tired or excited!)


Finance: Financial goverance to encourage (ahem, enforce) cost awareness, cost effectiveness and accountability


Operations: Improve supply chain methods and controls ensuring on time delivery of quality products

Marketing: Explore and exploit all potential Markets Local and export, using all available resources (especially d'internet)


Oh ya, and every so often just kick back and enjoy ourselves.
M.


BBQ Pics









































































































Personal Learning
One of the first Kiswahili phrases I learnt was 'sina pesa', 'i don't have money'. You need it as you get begged at the whole time. One evening last week while walking to the workshop I was approached (well he wheeled his wheelchair) by a man I only vaguely knew. I said hello and when he stuck out his hand to shake mine, I took his hand. I was still in motion as I was planning a slow walking handshake. But the handshake developed into a grip hold and I was stopped in my tracks. 'I am hunry. Please help me'. I have trained my mind to think, be sustainable, giving handouts isn't sustainable. But before I thought, I had reached into my pocket and gave him what change I had. F*** it, I'm not heartless. I can teach him how to fish tomorrow.

Friday, February 6, 2009

Look Ma...I'm on the radio!

Do you remember that nice Lady who came to visit me before Christmas. This Lady...


Umeeda Umedaly Switlo
Public Engagement Officer with CUSO-VSO in Canada
(with Prod Manager Shadrack, and Kaizen consultant Alex;)


Well she interviewed me and has podcasted the whole thing. Warning: It's 20 minutes long.
Go to http://cuso.podomatic.com/?p=2 and search for 'Duggan', then press the play button.
There is also a few more interviews with the people in Bombolulu.

Notes on Interview:
a)When asked about the song 'It's a long way to Tipperary' I wanted to say, 'We don't sing that much as it's a British Army marching song' but I felt it would set the wrong tone for the interview.

b)When I said Galway was 'the graveyard of ambition' I was quoting the Jackines I worked with in Dublin at the time. Galway rocks. I won't hear a word said against it.

c) When asked what I want to do after the assignment, I think covered all bases:- Work in Development in the area of Education- Live in Ireland (even though the above would mean working aboard)- go back to college to study (Even though that would probably mean not living in Galway)- Work with disabilities, in the area of education (In my spare time obviously!)
Clear as muddy water.

d) Yes. They have fish (samaki) and chips here...but they don't have a McDonaghs...after getting drenched walking the prom on a Sunday with your friends. That's what I meant by 'a different environment'.
e)It was just before Christmas so I was missing home more than usual.

f) The clicking sound is Umeeda's daughter taking photos (she was the official photographer for thier trip)

g) I have no idea why the photo they used was an extreme close up.

MD.

Cultural Learning
Viasi is the best snack...EVER! Potato chunks covered in batter and fried in oil. They sell it in small plastic bags on the side of the road everywhere. 20 bob worth of that, and a banana (5-7 bob), and lunch is sorted.

Sunday, February 1, 2009

Life and a bit of history

Life in general
Wow, January is over already. I am now well into the 4th month of my year here. In many ways I have been lucky with my assignment:
- great gaff
- working at an established organisation with loads going on
- good climate (if you don't mind sweating a bit)
- lots to do outside working hours, and good few volunteers close by
- ample quiet time for reading, writing and general faffing about

All in all, Life is good.

Bombolulu History
As the weeks pass I am forming a deeper understanding of the history of Bombolulu and of VSO's connection with them. In the mid to late 90's the place was booming. Over 300 people were employed and tourism was increasing every year. Then El Nino hit. The flooding nearly detroyed the place, ruined the showroom and all the stock. As well as this Election clashes and
both embassy and hotel bombings by terrorists affected the numbers of tourists visiting Kenya. The place nearly shut down. The workforce was downsized. Only strong donor support and loyal customers saved the place. Since then Bombolulu has struggled with limited tourism numbers, exasperated recently by the election clashes. The fact that there is a worldwide recession will really hit us in 2009. But Bombolulu has survived so far, and there are loads of initiatives ongoing that will hopefully make the organisation leaner and more secure.

So, Bombolulu has been around a long time an has seen many VSO volunteer come and go, I'm still working on the list:
Dates- Name- Nationality- Role
Bill Robison Scottish Project Manager
Monica - Swiss
Rolands and wife
Moji -British (Nigeria) Textile Designer
Masaki Chinese Designer
Some Italian Girl
Maria Kemp Scandanavian Designer - Textile & Jewlery
2004-6 Tom Cravens UK Marketing
2007 *Cindy and Jeff USA APDK and IT
*They only stayed a short while (6 weeks) due to the serious illness of one of their parents.
2008-2009 Mike Duggan Irish IT Specialist (that's me!)

The Tom Cravens guy; I am very like him apparently. Explains why some people in Bombolulu even now call me Tom. At least nobody thinks I'm Dutch anymore.

What else?
- Had a visit from Alan, an Irish Lad, from Limerick. He is working in a hospital as a 'freelance' volunteer amoung other things. He is trying to get an assignment with VSO.
- Was working Saturday morning; Management meeting. Despite a false start it was pretty productive. Lots for doing next week.
- Went to Haller Park again. Very peaceful place. Saw the Hippos this time.
- Local hotel at home, Castletroy park is closing down.

Everywhere I go this week they seem to be playing flippin' Enrique Iglesias. I'll tell you this, he's no Joe Dolan.

Later,
M.

Cultural Learning
When watching Hippo's eat always check first that you are not standing in the middle of an ant colony.

Saturday, January 24, 2009

Banking on Obama

So the Irish Banks eh! Soon ye'll all be keeping yere money under the matresses again. Lets hope the goverment doesn't bankrupt themselves bailing them out. Here it has taken me less then 3 months to open a Bank account! (careful the sarcasm doesn't drip on you now). One of the guys at work kindly got a Barclay's rep to come out to meet me. After jumping through a few hoops he finally had all the documents he needed. Unfortunately he went off on Christmas holidays but never came back. So my application disappered. Of course no-one told me and it was 2 weeks into the New Year before I actually found this out. Apparently Barclays have a high turnover of sales staff. I made an attempt to open an account with Equity Bank but didn't have the required letter from VSO. Finally Co-operative bank gave me an account when I arrived in with the correct letter and a friend from work with an longterm account there. Sorted. (Also, my work visa is on its way, so I can leave and re-enter the country at will.)

On Saturday (17th), I was asked by a colleague to visit a company out near the airport to advise on IT Management Systems. The company makes and refurbishes Speed boats (fibre glass and engines - cool!). It was interesting to compare a commerial entreprise's operations with how we do things at Bombolulu. It was a short visit as we had to hurry back to oversee the painting of the yellow floor lines in Bombolulu's stores. Later that night I met up with a few volunteers for some food and then went to see the Obama movie which was good enough as political documentaries go. He is some man for one man.

The highight of the week was the Obama inauguration. It is hard not to be affected here by the upswell of optimism at his election. I'm dubious as to the tangible benefits Kenya will experience, but what a role model for the youth of Kenya. I have decided to put aside my cynicism and jump on the bandwagon, "Yes we can!". We had a power cut here, half way through the speech. The bit I saw was fair good though.

Monday morning was "Rasha, Rasha, kidogo"- a bit drizzily (my favourite kiswahili phrase so far!). The week was focused around a management meeting on Thursday. It was a challenging week of reflecting on what has been achieved/not achieved in 2008, and identifying what our goals are in 2009. It was good to hear hard questions being asked in an open forum. At the centre of the plans is the Kaizen philosophy; remember "Alone we are weak, Together we are strong".

My friend Maj sent me over a copy of the Irish times (December 6th). I sit reading it in the evenings, sipping my coffee...nothing but misery, and the odd receipe for mince pies. In 'An Irishman's Diary' Frank Nally talks about the joy of the open fire. He calls it '...the most charismatic figure in the room.'. True. Níl aon tinteán mar do thinteán féin.

M.


Cutural learning
A fellow volunteers cultural learning for the week...
http://dianainkenya.whereareyou.net/index?page=message&id=74983

Monday, January 12, 2009

Trouble at the Gate

Some people have been asking where is this place, and where is that place, so I have gone all nerdy and set up some Google maps...

Kenyan Orientation
http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?msa=0&hl=en&ie=UTF8&msid=113290586371567899914.00046007c2bd918115de3&ll=-0.900842,39.287109&spn=9.742897,14.0625&z=6

Mombasa Orientation
http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?msa=0&hl=en&ie=UTF8&msid=113290586371567899914.00046007e80a8d8a163d0&z=13


So I arrived back to Bombolulu to find armed police at the gate and a large crowd gathered. There is an ongoing dispute about ownership of the land and there was a scuffle at the gate. A few lads were arrested after the argie-bargie but no one was badly injured thank God. It seems all to have quietened down now.

There was some talk of the scuffle at work on Monday, so I got some of the history, but really things continued on as normal. Please note that I feel completely safe and can happily go about my daily routine.

After many New Year handshakes and a few shared stories it was back to work. Catching up on all that had happened over Christmas and a few planning sessions. I bought a Safaricom modem and Nato (IT support guy) at work organised to get me a webcam at a decent price. All thanks to generous Christmas gifts from the family.

Also took a walk down to the klin with Alex. The new shelves arrived and the thermostat, fans and water sprinkers are all in place. The klin is ready for action. It looks great. Hopefully it will be filled with woodcarvings soon and helping to generate many more orders.


There is an awful lot going on at work so I won't bore you with details but on Saturday we 'Spring Cleaned' (see below) the stores. The new shelves had arrived so we beavered away all day and the store is starting to look 'clean and lean'. This morning I went back down to Stores to help do valuations on the Red tag stock(stuff we want to get outta stores) . I must admit it was great to do some hands on physical labour.




















Sunday we met up to celebrate Abdu's 40 birthday at Diana's house. It was a sugar infused tea party and Abdu got a homemade archeologists kit for his birthday. He was chuffed I think.





















Looking at flights home for June and budget trips to Masai Mara for Easter to help quell the New Year's blues. The modem is great 'cause now I have Skype 'mikedugganjnr' and got to talk to, and see, the family, and little Callum, during the week. They are all the fineist.

Will blog again before the end of the week.

M.

Cultural Learning
- Kenyans don't make New Year resolutions. The concept doesn't fit in the Third world.
- Also, 'Spring Cleaning' is not a term they are familiar with, understandably. This is the tropics after all.

Sunday, January 4, 2009

New Years

So, on the menu for the dinner party was
Main course 1: Potato and chick pea curry;
Main course 2: Curry with green beans, baby sweetcorn, onions, sugar snaps and garlic
Dessert: Banana split (with pineapple) and coffee/Tea

10 people came. we ate late, 7:30ish. It all went down well. We headed out to a night club (Il Covo) for a bit of bopping after but didn't stay long. I did get chatted up by a local girl called Amy who insisted I didn't have an Irish accent so I must be Dutch. Apparently the Dutch and Kenyans are very alike. I never did quite find out why.

For the next two days I didn't do much bar reading and cooking and cleaning and talking to friends and family on the phone. Thankfully I had my phone working again. The family stayed up till late at my brother Matt's house on Christmas Day. Everyone seems to have had a good Christmas.

The journey to Voi was uneventful. Spent most of it sending NY's text. After getting settled we bought some booze, collected some volunteers from the Nairobi bus, and on to Chris's gaff for the party.

It was an interesting dynamic as the African contingent were mostly men and the volunteer contingent mostly women. Chris hosted the party masterfully ensuring all enjoyed themselves. A dance off around midnight included a short piece of Irish dancing. My only excuse is that I had been drinking. I would have probably drunk more if my bottle of whiskey hadn't mysteriously evapourated.

The night ended with a brisk walk down the red hills of Voi to a warm bed.

After a day recovering it was time to get back to reality. We fought the travelling crowds and eventually made it back to Mombasa. I was anxious to get back to work and a daily routine.

M.


Cultural Learning
Homosexuality is still illegal in Kenya. Female Genital Mutilation is not illegal (even though Kenya is signed up to UN Human Rights bill). Neither is mentioned in polite conversation. Of course I heard both discussed at the New Years Party.











No I don't want my picture taken right now. (Lamu)










On the rooftop with the Canadian volunteers





















Me and Tali on the porch












Sending new year text. I look tanned in this but it is probably as much to do with all the red dust in voi.











The dance off.

Christmas in Heaven

Right! OK, so bear with me a minute. Washing machines are one of the greatest invention ever, right. But what would be the best invention you could think of. Hmmmm...Yes that's it! A teleporter. Ho-K, ho-K...hold on...seriously I'm not going mad. This would have been the perfect Christmas if I owned the world's first ever teleporter!

Let me explain...

A bright and early morning we waited for Abdu's Dad's friend to collect us from outside Nakumatt. He arrived in his jeep only a few minutes late and we set off towards Malindi airport, collecting Abdu from his Dads place on the way. About 20km from the airport strange noises started eminating from the engine and eventually we were forced to pull over. A friendly passer by stopped and offered to take us the rest of the way. He was a genuinely kind elderly gentlemen who refused even to take money for petrol. We rocked up to the airport (a generous title), with loads of time to spare.

A 20 minute plane ride later we landed on Manda island, in the Lamu Archipeligo. Jannat Hotel had sent someone to meet us and piled Diana, Abdu and myself onto a boat to Lamu beach, giddy with holiday cheer. Lamu island is a World Heritage site and exudes Swahili charm with donkey's the main transport and very narrow atmospheric streets winding away from the sea. 'Jannet' means Heaven, and it lived up to it's name with a pool and breezey lounge areas. Everything was perfect except for an over zealous and slightly creepy tour guide. Then the realisation that I'd forgotten the pin for my phone which I had turned off when getting on the plane. Christmas and Phoneless...bugger!



Most Christmases I avoid going home too early. Usual just the day before Christmas eve to help out with last minute shopping and buying wine and beer etc...This year my Nephew Callum understands about the Santa thing and the teleporter would hve allowed me to head back for an hour and soak up the excitement of waiting for Santa with him. I would have popped around to see my other Godchlidren while I was at it.

Back in Heaven, I was sharing a dorm type room with 4 others - proper volunteer style. The bed was decorated with fragrant flowers and as we were first to arrive we had the choice of beds on offer. We rambled a bit, and ate in a sea front restaurant until the other volunteers eventually arrived, full with stories of there safari (journey). Everyone has been working hard in their respective assignments, now the time had arrived for a well earned rest.

So we did the secret Santa draw once Hannah and Dan arrived. Emma did a fine job as chairperson and all the formalities of organising a group were taken care of with swift efficiency. The next few days were filled with trips to Shela beach to swim, strolls around town and seafood and nyama choma (grilled meat) dinners and a few beers. A couple of visits to the pool ended up in a pool olympics with the resident 11 year old Ralph. I won the 'hold your breath under water' event, but that has always been my best event.
Christmas eve we (Diana, Rachael and I) went to the Catholic church for a service which started 90 minutes late and was all in Swahili. It was next door to Petley's bar/club which was just kicking off. The Confession of faith had a backing track of... "Do me, Do me, Do me, Do me, baby"...at that moment I stepped into the teleporter and for half an hour was sitting up in the balcony of Birdhill church watching the local kids singing in the choir and sitting beside my brother Jack spotting who I knew in the crowd. There was Mam half way up near the front. Matt and Katie should be in before the Gospel. I saw the eldest Ryan Gun brother was home. I left just before mass ended...and back to Jannat house where a local Muslim wedding was blaring music forcing me to stay up and polish off a bottle of Whiskey with an English Lad I had just met. Lex was his name. Civil servant from London on a few months volunteering assignment.


















Early the next morning, Christmas day, the 10 of us headed out on a Dhow to Manda toto island. I rang my Mum on a borrowed phone and wished all the family a happy christmas. I threw the teleporter into the sea. The family were enjoying Christmas day, it was time I started to too. After a leisurely cruise the dhow hands speared some fish while we snorkelled and generally communed with the blue world. After, we relaxed on a beach and swam a bit while our fish was grilled and some veg curry and coconut rice was cooking. It was without doubt one of the most unforgettable, sensory filled, meals of my life. Soon after the sail was hoisted and we floated blissfully back to Lamu.
Later we were so kn-nackered that the evening meal was a quiet affair. Before bed we exchanged Secret Santa presents. I got Chris and vice versa. I got a piece of carved driftwood. A cool momento. We had a good laugh. All seemed happy with their presents and pottered off to bed slowly. Soon we would be leaving this Idyllic setting behind. Most were already making plans to return.
The next day we flew to Malindi and stopped off in Watamu beach for a while. Rachael and Trixie stayed on in Watamu but would be using my place as a base for the days leading up to New year's party in Chris's place in Voi.
Somewhere during the holiday I had agreed to hold a dinner party on Sunday 28th. I needed to do some serious shopping.

M.
Notices:
- My Uncle Paddy has sent a Camel to Africa with Bothar. One hump or 2? -
- My Nephew Matt just turned 18. Hope you enjoyed clay pigeon shooting -
- 'Cnoc an Ein', the Uncle's horse, won in Punchestown. The family are still celebrating -
- You are never too old to make Sand Castles, NEVER! -
- My sister still hasn't sent me pictures of Callum opening his presents -